Injector cleaner and injector / spark plug anti seize

This is the normal Champion stuff but I can’t find a spec for it. It talks about graphite.

I remember researching this topic a while ago after the “copper scare” and the above stuff was found to be OK.

I bought a tube of the LM48 stuff mentioned by @vic above

Does anyone actually use it for this purpose? The description suggests it might be designed to enable parts to remain loose!

Basically grease on the threads is irrelevant when tightening, as long as you end up with the same preload, which is difficult – you change the friction and thus the required moment.
If you use a spark plug with a sealing ring and turn it until it is compressed, you have an indicator for the applied force, so all should be good.

On the other hand, I have no clue about spark plugs and don’t even know you are supposed to preload them – but then, how else are they supposed to stay in place?
Just remember that you massively influence the tightening force applied by the moment when you use grease, you can easily destroy bolts if you tighten to the same moment required for non greased threads.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-77134-Nickel-Anti-Seize-Lubricant/dp/B007NJOEAI

I use this on my 14mm to 18mm adapters, but keep the NGK plugs dry, as recommended by the manufacturer.

Keep spark plug threads free from lube – and the Helicoil company will love you ! They keep making millions from selling their thread repair tools to the trade and were copied by other companies, from China as well. I say the main share of wrecked threads was not from overtightening fasteners , instead by seized dry alu threads when undoing them and pulling the windings out by force. And then, the typical wrecked common threads were produced by using a torque wrench with wrong setting by mistake. So that is why I tell my friends to lock up any torque wrench in a tool box from view and just have common spanners available. You will not strip any fastener thread by hand strength and ordinary spanners above 13mm hexagon, meaning above 8mm threads. The length of spanners is just too short for breaking anything. Quite right, torque numbers would not be suitable when having these pastes on threads , so have hand feel , not torque wrench and you be fine. And yes, I do MoS2 paste on all stainless fasteners and spark plugs for many decades, never ever had copper paste for that. As to traces of copper paste on spark plugs – hard to see how that could find its way into engine oil , it would have to work around piston rings in a minimum quantity – very unlikely . Look at my photo below, paste and finest powder MoS2 from Bundeswehr, so this must be good enough for winning the next war I guess. Vic

OK, so nobody is using the Liquid Moly LM48. I will chuck it away and go back to the Champion stuff which obviously works.

Peter wrote:

However “with copper and graphite suspended in high quality grease” tells us that it will screw up oil analysis pretty well.

I don’t believe that this is true. I send in a sample after each and every oil change. For a couple of years my shop used copper paste while I used the Champion stuff, so there was one sample per year with copper paste (because of the annual) and two or three per year without. There was absolutely no difference in the (very low) copper readings.

My shop uses the Champion stuff now as well, but I had to use copper paste in Australia once because it was all the shop had. Again there was absolutely no change in the copper readings.

It is possible that you took care to not get copper on the 2 or 3 spark plug threads close to the combustion chamber.

That is what one does with sealants in the fuel system, where the sealant must not get into the fuel.

When I was doing this, I just put the thread lube fairly liberally onto the entire length of the spark plug thread

High copper can also be from 15W50 however so one needs to be careful to not do both changes concurrently.

No need to bin the Liquimoly, it will be at least as good as any copper paste, rather better in its job. But hardly anybody knows about MoS2 paste in most countries, copper or other antiseize is more common to find. Just the content of that L 48 does not fit the description: It says MoS2 on the photo but the description tells it is tungsten disulfide which is said to be even better. I got nano powder tungsten and MoS2 too for adding to gearbox oils or engines. So I see copper paste as a poor and cheap stuff good enough for aviation maybe. Vic