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Is there an exhaust sealing paste that is any good?

I used the Holts Firegum on my TB20 exhaust clamps and it worked well.

It does take a long time to air cure at ambient temperature, so I heated up the exhaust with a hot air gun to get it to solidify. On first start up it all stayed in place and there were no leaks.

The cowlings will come off next week so it will be interesting to see how well it has survived.

EGLK, United Kingdom

There is a silicone sealant meanr for fireplaces and ovens. It is obviously not RTV but HTV but otherwise pretty similiar. Will check with some colleagues and report how stable it is.

...
EDM_, Germany

On some aircraft, four-cylinder Maules in particular, we seem to have a choice: accept slightly loose and leaking exhaust joints, or do a lot of TIG welding… YMMV, but if Maule airplanes have a strong point, it’s not the exhaust system.

Glenswinton, SW Scotland, United Kingdom

Dow Corning RTV 736 is used as a high heat application. I would hardly recommend putting it everywhere on your exhaust system but it does work and will hold up. It is only rated to continuous temperatures of 500F or 260C.

I used the Holts Firegum on my TB20 exhaust clamps and it worked well.
It does take a long time to air cure at ambient temperature, so I heated up the exhaust with a hot air gun to get it to solidify. On first start up it all stayed in place and there were no leaks.

I tried that but could not make it work, for a couple of reasons:

  • it would take the mother of hot air guns to heat up the clamp on the exhaust system sufficiently (and I would not want to use a blowlamp or any open flame for obvious safety reasons)
  • if I did heat it up enough, the stuff just bubbles up… maybe it needs the exhaust in a slowly rising oven, but that is just a silly thing to be doing, except at e.g. engine overhaul
Administrator
Shoreham EGKA, United Kingdom
I do not believe in long term sealing using that stuff, expecting cracks after solidifying and under vibration conditions. That is why I recommended wrapping glass fibre under the clamp as an outer seal over the old sheet metal strip in case the flames have access to the seal itself. The glass fibre has some flexibility but you will retighten the clamp after a few hours use as it settles under compression. But that is no big deal, we have quite a few clamps like that all around the radial engine. Vic
vic
EDME

Based on some tests I think the Holts stuff would actually work if one could heat up the exhaust (by running the engine) gently, without there being exhaust pressure, which is of course impossible The stuff stays in place, provided it can see the high temperature without pressure, first.

Administrator
Shoreham EGKA, United Kingdom

I have found something much better: Autogem GTP2, also called GTP02 – Ebay.

It stays in place.

Administrator
Shoreham EGKA, United Kingdom

Another interesting bit: I ordered some of that Holts stuff mentioned in post #1 (because the local car shops didn’t have it) and instead got Hylomar EAP5 which sounds like it might actually work.

Administrator
Shoreham EGKA, United Kingdom

Peter, the first product you used is meant for improved sealing where two exhaust pipes are connected by a sliding joint. It acts as a lubricant to aid assembly and then helps to provide a gas tight seal. It is not meant to fill gaps.
The second product contains fibre glass and is meant to fill gaps, usually with the addition of a heavy foil to help keep it in place. It too will blow out if the gap is too large and it is not foil supported.

Last Edited by Stickandrudderman at 23 Jan 19:48
Forever learning
EGTB
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