Canaries in Covid Times

Here is a somewhat lengthy report of our trip to the Canary islands we did in the first half of March. It’s about the flying and the Covid restrictions, Mrs. terbang has written about handling in Spain in the appropriate thread. Moreover, it’s a bit about the touristy stuff and I’ve included many photos (just iPhone this time). Sorry if it’s too convoluted.

As I have mentioned before, we have family living on the island of La Palma – normally part of the year. Not much is normal these days, however, and they have been there for 18 months now. We had been planning a visit long before the virus hit, but we had to postpone several times for various unrelated reasons. After this long winter we were really desperate to get out again, we hadn’t been abroad since last September. So despite the increased effort that is currently necessary to travel, we were determined to fly down there this time. In the end we flew Mannheim (EDFM) – Biarritz (LFBZ) – Seville (LEZL) – Tenerife (GCXO) – La Gomera (GCGM) – Lanzarote (GCRR) – Córdoba (LEBA) – San Sebastián (LESO) – Mannheim.

The route

You may probably ask why La Palma is not on the itinerary – well, see below. We had planned the journey for a couple of weeks but the rules kept changing so this was a bit of a moving target. In the beginning we were not sure if they would let us in at all, and if so, where we could stop, would there be hotels on the way, what documents would be required and all that. I even had the idea to leave Mannheim in the evening, stop in France in the middle of the night and reach southern Spain in the early morning. This turned out not to be necessary, however. End of February Andalusia didn’t let anybody in, but an overnight stop in France was OK. We chose Biarritz, because it’s as close to the Spanish border as it gets and there is a hotel in walking distance (we didn’t fancy a taxi ride).

We learned that a PCR test not older than 72 hours was necessary to enter France as well as Spain. So we organized a test the day before departure. Our passport numbers had to be stated in the test result. The lab near us actually didn’t support that but after several phone calls and getting in contact with someone competent they could help us.

We were under the impression that we needed to enter Spain via an international airport but this was probably not true. Anyway, we opted for Seville.

In the Canary Islands not all airports have Avgas and are GA friendly. To put it better, few have Avgas and are not that GA unfriendly. Most (all?) of them are parking PPR. When we contacted La Palma they didn’t grant permission to park. I had already expected that as there was a NOTAM about closed stands. Of course, a little Mooney would always fit in a corner, but no begging helped. So our only chance was to fly to Tenerife and take one of the very frequent ATRs over to La Palma.

We departed Mannheim on a sunny afternoon. It felt great to pull the plane out of the hanger and fly a bit further away for the first time after five months. The flight to Biarritz was completely uneventful. Well, except for the headwind, of course.

Preparing the plane

Sahara dust close to Biarritz

After landing we taxied to the fuel station and while we refueled, two friendly policemen approached us to check our PCR tests. They were happy to see it on the tablet. After parking and securing the plane we payed the fees so we could leave early the next day.

We walked over to our hotel next to terminal right before the curfew started at 18:00 local time. We had to have dinner in our room.

What a shame: wasting an evening in France like this

It was still dark when we left for Seville in the morning. LFBZ doesn’t have the best reputation, but I can’t say anything negative about it; it was convenient, quick and hassle free. Again we had to fight the headwind which got stronger up high. ATC wanted us to climb to at least level 130 but we could negotiate 12000 ft with Madrid. Even though we had visual ground contact and there were no peaks above 6000 ft on our way, they didn’t let us fly lower. Otherwise the flight was uneventful.

Still dark in LFBZ

Still in the climb out

Nice colors

Finally the sun comes out

Approaching Seville

We had contracted a handling agent in Seville. They had promised a speedy turn-around and asked 100€ for the service. And one must say they delivered. The fuel truck arrived shortly after we had shut down the engine. We were told that police wasn’t interested in seeing us or our PCR test results. Then they took us to their facilities to use the toilet and pay the bill. After a stop at the airport’s office to pay landing fee, they drove us back to our plane and we could request start-up less than an hour after landing.

Refueling in Seville

The flight to Tenerife was a bit more tricky. The headwind up high was forecast to be terrible. Freezing level was about 9000 ft and there were a lot of clouds. We probably would have been able to climb without picking up too much ice, but then we would have had to climb really high. And up there was that wind. Therefore we requested stop climb at level 80. Spanish ATC was happy with that for a short while but then said Moroccan ATC couldn’t accept us at that level on our planned route. However after we were handed over, the Moroccans offered us a relatively direct route to Tenerife at a level at our discretion in uncontrolled airspace. This led us away from the African coast, but we have done this before and so we accepted. Still we had to fly almost 800 NM but the headwind wasn’t that bad down low.

Over the Atlantic

Clouds over the ocean

Weather in GCXO was so-so. Showers and gusty winds but ceiling wasn’t too bad. There was quite some crosswind but nothing dramatic.

GCXO is located at more than 2000 feet and is surrounded by mountains. It’s often windy and not surprisingly visibility is often poor and there are many low clouds. The runway is long, however, and there are ILS at both ends. Handling is mandatory (see the thread I linked above) but no slots are required. There is Avgas.

On the ILS 30 GCXO

Santa Cruz de Tenerife

Final 30 GCXO

RM parked for a week

Handling worked fine and was really cheap. Again the fuel truck arrived after a few minutes. After that, we were taken land side and a policeman took a look at our PCR test result. It was the one and only time any official cared about it in Spain. Now we had to wait for two hours for our commercial flight over to La Palma. It was already dark when we took off.

First thing in the morning the next day, we went to a doctor to have an antigene test done to be sure we didn’t pose a threat to our family. Result was negative once again and finally vacation started. Our family’s house has an apartment attached to it where we stayed for a week.

View from the terrace of our apartment – finally vacation!

The rate of infections in La Palma beginning of March was extremely low. Accordingly, all shops, restaurants and bars were open. However, like everywhere else in Spain we’ve been to, everybody wears masks in public.

In normal times La Palma is well connected with weekly direct flights to/from all major German and probably other European cities. However, I think it’s particularly popular with Germans. It’s not a beach lovers’ destination, most people come to hike the beautiful mountains. The trails can get quite crowed with hikers but not in Covid times. One of the classic hikes is the Ruta de los Vulcanes which we did once again this time. In seven ours of hiking we met one other couple.

It’s a bit absurd to write about La Palma airport as we flew there in an ATR72 but at least we have been there before. When we visited GCLA the last time a few years ago, the airport wasn’t used to small GA, but it wasn’t a major problem. No handling required but only Jet A available. The airport is almost at sea level but terrain raises sharply to the West of the North-South runway. Depending on wind direction and strength it’s supposed to be tricky.

La Palma: View down to Santa Cruz, near Pico de la Nieve

La Palma: You don’t go there for the beaches

La Palma: Ruta de los Vulcanes

La Palma: Tired terbang

La Palma: Cumbrecita near our families house

La Palma: Caldera de Taburiente

After a week we felt like moving on. For the first time we saw the airport by daylight. In fact there were works going on, but there was still enough space to park a 380 away from the main apron.

Obviously impossible to squeeze in a little Mooney here

Weather was poor in GCXO and the pilots of the ATR72 had to go missed on their first attempt. The handling agent greeted us when we left the aircraft and said he would pick us up at the appropriate entry once we had claimed our checked baggage.

In fact his colleague was there when we showed up, but still security wouldn’t let us in because of a missing form. Nobody could explain what form they were looking for. After ten minutes and countless phone calls of the agent, the form was suddenly not required anymore and we could pass.

We were taken to the handler’s office to pay the ridiculously low fees of less then eight Euros and then they drove us to our aircraft. I gave the handler a tip because he was really helpful. In the beginning he was very reluctant to accept it but after a while he took it and said he’ll drink a beer to my health in the evening. This can’t be a bad thing in these times, I think.

AENA airport fees can be paid online as has been described in the relevant thread. One has to ask ops to send an invoice by email, but then it’s really convenient.

We had filed VFR but still the weather at GCXO was poor so we canceled and filed Y more than an hour before our departure. ATC could not find our flight plan when we requested startup. I have no idea where it was but after 10 minutes or so they found it and we were good to go.

Mt. Teide on the way to La Gomera

Weather improved over the ocean and we could cancel IFR as GCGM is VFR only. Still there were many clouds and views weren’t as good as we had hoped for.

La Gomera’s tiny capital of San Sebastián on the approach to GCGM

Short final 27 in GCGM

GCGM is prone to strong and rapidly changing winds and the terrain makes for interesting approaches. While we were on the island we saw something like VRB15G30 in the METAR frequently. It wasn’t that bad when we landed, but there was some nasty wind shear on short final. I even had to crank the throttle fully open for a few seconds.

It is a sleepy and very friendly airport, there are only one or two scheduled flights per day, over to GCXO. No fuel at all is available but no handling has to be contracted for small GA planes.

Now that’s what they call ramp appeal

La Gomera attracts a different crowd of tourists. There are no direct flights to mainland Europe and the flights to Tenerife Norte don’t connect to charter flights which usually go to Tenerife Sur. Therefore it’s probably more convenient to take the ferry unless you have an own plane Many of the foreigners apparently tend to stay longer and this gives quite a different feel to this place.

I learned from Wikipedia that the geology differs from La Palma. Even to a lay man’s eye the rocks look different and there are no active volcanoes, so this is probably true. The climate seems to be pretty much the same. Vegetation is a bit different again. The island is forested as well, but less pine trees and more laurel forests instead.

There were no reported Covid cases when we arrived, so there were no restrictions to public life whatsoever. We decided to stay in Airbnb apartments but we would have probably done that without the pandemic as well. Most restaurants have outdoor seating, so this wasn’t an issue.

La Gomera: View from the balcony of our first apartment in San Sebastián

La Gomera: Disused terraced fields

La Gomera: View from the balcony of our second apartment in Valle Gran Rey

La Gomera: Hiking in the Valle Hermoso area, Tenerife and Mt. Teide in the background

When we departed it was one of these VRB15G30 days again. An ATR72 was on the way and when the tower reported the wind, the pilot replied that they would wait a while and try in five minutes. He did so and made a perfect landing.

We had filed VFR for two reasons. First we hoped we could get some views, but we were disappointed again. We were bounced around quite a bit after take of so we climbed above the scattered clouds over the sea. The clouds were much denser over the islands, so there was really not much to see.

Tenerife and Mt. Teide again

Small island between Fuerteventura and Lanzarote (Lobos?)

Short final 03 GCRR

GCRR has Avgas and as long as you can get a stand on the GA apron (PPR), there is no handling required. It’s often windy here as well, but terrain in the direct vicinity is flat, so approaches are not that demanding. A slot is required for IFR arrivals as well as departures and that was the second reason for flying VFR. In that case an email is sufficient and that’s necessary for the parking PPR anyway. It’s a busy airport with regular flights from all over Europe. From the GA apron to the exit it’s just a few meters. The only drawback is that’s a bit of a walk to the main terminal where the rental car companies have their counters.

Lanzarote is completely different again. It’s very touristy and in normal times it’s crowded year round. This island in fact is a beach destination and there are numerous hotels of all classes in addition to the countless vacation apartments. Of course, there is also an abundance of restaurants, bars and clubs.

In contrast to the islands we came from, Lanzarote has no forests. There is not much rain and in some parts it’s a real desert. There is still a lot volcanic activity and the island is dotted by cone shaped mountains.

Covid case numbers were considerably higher than on the other islands so we kept our distance. Restaurants and bars were closed, at least in the evening. We had booked an Airbnb apartment again.

Lanzarote: Playa Punta Prieta

Lanzarote: La Graciosa, the eighth inhabited island of the archipelago

Lanzarote: Northern part of the island

Lanzarote: Breakfast on the balcony of our Airbnb (Huevos rotos con Morcilla )

Lanzarote: Beaches were almost deserted

Lanzarote: Southwestern part

Lanzarote: On top of one of these cones

Lanzarote: Last evening on the balcony

To avoid obtaining a slot, we filed a VFR departure and a later IFR pick-up. However, ATC didn’t care about it, on requesting start-up we immediately received an IFR clearance including a SID. We were fine with that, of course. We climbed all the way up to FL180 as the wind down low wasn’t forecast any better. We had a little headwind again, but not too bad. Otherwise the flight to Cordoba was uneventful.

Leaving Lanzarote

This is Africa

Tangier

Strait of Gibraltar

Andalusia and Sierra Nevada in the background

Right downwind 22 LEBA

Cordoba was a very convenient fuel stop and we probably should have chosen this on the way down as well. Turn-around was really quick, no handling and no hassle at all. France wouldn’t let us in without a recent PCR test, therefore we opted for LESO as an overnight stop. There is nothing to report about the following flight to San Sebastián.

Madrid

On the ramp in LESO

No handling is required in LESO when coming from the Schengen area. The lady who ran the ARO was in an extraordinarily good temper that evening. She explained in a mixture of Spanish and German that she was happy there was traffic at all.

From the airport it’s about twenty minutes on foot to the town of Hondarribia where we had booked a hotel. The region was under curfew in the evening and we ordered dinner in our room what was surprisingly good.

When we checked the weather for the next day we decided that it was better to stay a day longer down here. A storm front was forecast to pass through central Europe. It was only Friday, so no problem, and at least it felt a little bit like spring here. We spent the next day with a little hike around town.

Hondarribia

Spring in Basque Country

A shower passed through when we walked to the airport and despite the fact that she had to work on a Sunday, the lady in the ARO hadn’t lost her good mood.

Once again we departed VFR, but this time to stay below freezing level and avoid the convective clouds in the area. As almost always, French ATC was very accommodating and sympathetic. Just call when you wish the pick-up, they said.

Departing LESO

First we climbed to 120 and later to 180 to avoid the ice. It was really cold up there and of course we had headwind again.

Cold outside

-31C and headwind

RM back in her hangar

Regulations in Germany required us to register online and to be tested immediately after arrival (the next day in our case) followed by ten days of quarantine. The quarantine could be cut short by doing another test after five days and we took that option, of course.

Covid restrictions made flying around Europe a bit less flexible for us. There is simply one more thing to care about, besides weather, handling, fuel, opening hours and what not. Without the pandemic we would have chosen the overnight stops differently. Probably with a proper French dinner and a tapas night in Andalusia or some such. And San Sebastián would have been nicer with a tour around the pincho bars. On the other hand, accommodation and rental cars were available on short notice and having all the hiking trails to ourselves wasn’t bad.

Spain still isn’t the most GA friendly country in Europe but the handling issue has improved a lot thanks to the work of AOPA Spain. Thanks @Xpainflyer for posting the relevant info here on EuroGA.